Saturday April 27, 2019. 1800.
Gary Johnson Scholarship Benefit Concert
B-Side, Oneonta, New York
Saturday April 27, 2019. 1800.
Gary Johnson Scholarship Benefit Concert
B-Side, Oneonta, New York
That doc of down under is surely a doc on par with the bestest of that…Cheers, doc snock…
The update of my website is in preparation for the publishing of my first book, “Doc Down Under” coming later this fall.
Welcome back to Doc Down Under, now significantly re-habbed, dusted-off and open for business…
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|Cradle Mountain over Dove Lake, an iconic Tasmanian vista|
|Brisbane- a modern airport, all self check-in!|
At the risk of becoming redundant, it was back to Tasmania for me; this time to work EM at Launceston General, the second largest ED in the state. As usual, I took a few days beforehand to explore, and headed back up to Cradle Mountain NP, hoping for some good weather for photos and views. The weather cooperated and I had some fantastic hiking in the Tasmanian highlands.
|North Coast Tassie beaches and headlands|
|Wheels down for landing|
|QANTAS link, hop over Bass Strait|
|The Waratah Heritage B&B|
I returned to the Waratah in Launnie for my first night, as it’s a long winding road up to Cradle Mnt.; best done in the daylight. Also, better to stock up on trail food etc in the Big Smoke, as Tassie gets really rural, really fast.
|Launceston Park fountain|
Launceston, pop 90K, has one of the most intact heritage downtowns in Australia. Settled around 1806, it’s the third oldest city in Australia; begun soon after Sydney and Hobart. It was spared the worst of the 1960-70’s urban renewal blight, unlike so many other cities world-wide. It’s a small, safe, charming city that the locals take great pride in.
|Country road heading into the Great Western Tiers|
Next morning, it was up early, under favorable skies, heading west into the mountains; only a half hour out of Launnie. The rolling rural landscape looks similar, at a distance, to upstate New York or Vermont; deeply green, well-tended, agricultural; fields sprinkled with black and white mottled Holsteins. Brooding wilderness is never far on the horizon though…
I got a great deal on a room at the Cradle Mountain Hotel, right outside the park, 2 minutes from the visitor’s center. About 400 m off the main road, and surrounded by bushland, it proved to be the perfect base for exploring the park. Being off season, it was pretty quiet, with the weather clearing and crisp; perfect!
Unlike my trip last month, which was a complete white-out (see my past DDU posting), I arrived at Dove Lake under a light, lifting ceiling; the mountains playing hide and seek with the rapidly shifting cloud cover – very magical…The anticipation was building by the minute…!
And then, suddenly, the summit ridges appeared as in a dream…
|Mysterious mountain weather…|
|The calendar shot!|
|Nowhere I’d rather be….|
The weather forecast called for clearing in the morning. I secretly hoped to attempt to summit Cradle Mountain, but tried to have no ego in the process. Just start out and see how far I was able to travel- one of the benefits of the wisdom that comes with age…I also knew I was pretty out of steep hiking shape. So I took off for a two hour shake down hike that afternoon; starting down the trail I’d need to take tomorrow to head towards the summit.
|Dove Lake behind Lake Lilla|
|Tassie Devil- symbol of the Tassie Park Service|
I felt pretty good, but didn’t overdo it, just get my hiking muscle memory fired up. At Cradle Mnt. you need to take a shuttle bus into and out of the park. As it was quiet in mid-winter, I didn’t want to miss the last ride out. After the warm-up hike, I went off looking for wildlife, wombats and local waterfalls. Beyond the iconic Dove Lake and Cradle Mnt. there’s an extensive trail network, numerous other beautiful alpine lakes and waterfalls…There’s much more here than expected. In fact, this park is just the northern tip of the vast series of parks and reserves that make up the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area. It runs unbroken except for a few roads about 200 km south, all the way to the SW coast of Tassie, and encompasses around 20% of the entire island landmass. I believe it’s the largest temperate rainforest park remaining in the southern hemisphere, and still truly wild.
|Wombat selfie redux!!|
|A very patient subject|
|Say cheese Mr Wombie….!|
|Pencil Pine Falls|
|Wombat dens with foot for scale|
Peppers runs a beautiful lodge right at the Park entrance. A lovely spot to have afternoon tea by the open fireplace after a long hike. Or to spend a few nights in wilderness luxury.
That evening, I attended the Devils@ Cradle nighttime feeding session. In season, you’d need to make reservations, but I just showed up. It was fascinating, and highly recommended. The facility is a Tasmanian Devil sanctuary, rescue and breeding program. If you are keen to see a live Devil, this is the best place on the planet to do so. They are highly elusive in the wild.
|A rare stationary moment- about the size of a small-medium dog when fully grown|
The 90 minute lecture and tour is really informative. They have around 40 devils in large outdoor, natural enclosures. As feeding time approaches, the damp, alpine air is rent by the eerie, evil squabbling of the little Devils. Well named indeed, as they sound horrendous..!
But, it’s all really just a show; a way to establish dominance over the prey. They stand back on haunches, pale mouths agape, and squall and hiss in the darkness…Spine chillling…Kids love the show!
Devils are unique to Tasmania, and also for being strictly carnivorous marsupials, who are true independents. They establish no family groups, defend no territory and are essentially solitary individuals. They only congregate to breed and eat carrion. The squabbling over the spoils is truly epic! Devils @ Cradle is a must do if in this part of the world, and supporting a great conservation effort. The center also rehabs rare Eastern and Spotted Tailed Quolls, other carnivorous marsupials that are very threatened.
|Mirror image of an Aussie icon|
Up early and on the trail under flawless skies. The morning views of Dove Lake and Cradle Mountain were calendar worthy!
It was going to be an epic day…but no promises on summiting…Let’s just start out, one step in front of another…
|A stunning start to the hike|
This iconic view really does live up to it’s hype. The surrounding wildness, scale and balance of the scene is even more powerful than anticipated. Like the Matterhorn and Grand Tetons in my personal experience, all the pictures you’ve seen just can’t capture the entire essence of the place. I’m drawn to such places, and am happiest to immerse myself and spend time.
|Marion’s Lookout above Wombat Pool|
|Climbing higher, Crater Lake|
|On Marion’s Lookout. High above Dove Lake, Mt Hanson behind|
|Your host at Marion’s Lookout, Cradle Mountain ridge behind.|
|Deciduous Fagus (Beech) leaves, Aussie foliage…!|
The weather was perfect. I had all the gear, time and food I needed. It was just a matter of tenacity and desire overcoming age, wear and tear. The round trip is about 14 km and gains over 2000 ft of elevation. And the downhill is always a knee-killer! Steady on, let’s see how we go….
|Feeling pretty good…|
|On the moorlands, heading for Kitchen Hut|
|My destination-hopefully, if the old carcass holds up…|
|A Currawog, an alpine Raven|
|Over the moorlands|
|Kitchen Hut, emergency shelter. The upper shovel is to dig thru snow drifts to enter in winter!|
|The whole kit bag|
|The summit is an enormous Dolomite extrusion|
|The trail higher is marked by snow wands, don’t deviate…!|
|Unusual multi-colored lichens|
|Steeper and treacherous|
The summit ridge is a really unique jumble of Dolomite shards – not exactly boulders, more like pick-up-sticks. You have to be very careful not to slip between them. A fracture/ disclocated ankle up here would get really complicated quickly. In snow or rain it would be utterly treacherous. Tricky when you’re leg tired and trying to move quickly…careful…with every step…
|Hiker’s on the backside of the ridge|
|The “trail” ahead…gulp…|
|The sunless, icy backside of the ridge|
|Digging deep, but feeling pretty good|
|The cold, slippery backside of the ridge. See the two hikers lower Left?|
|Summit! Now I need to turn around and get off this thing…|
|Barn Bluff in the background|
|Cradle Mountains jumbled Dolomite summit. Tricky in snow…|
I was pretty whipped, the views were stunning and the sense of accomplishment satisfying. But a big front was moving in quickly from Bass Strait in the North. Time to go; I spent maybe 10″ on the summit…
|The way home….or to Mordor?|
|Whiteout front coming in fast…!|
|Marion’s Lookout and Dove Lake beyond, the way back|
|Kitchen Hut under different conditions|
|The moorlands socked-in|
|Mountain weather changes fast, creeping ground fog, ridge now clearing!|
|Cardio down climb….|
I was going to miss the last bus out from Dove Lake, so I detoured north to the stop at Ronney Creek; longer, but flatter….it was a stunning trail, but most of it passed in a blur as I got into a trail lope and racked up the kms…
|Crater Lake outlet with peaks in a mystical ground fog|
|The less known Crater Lake boathouse|
|The trail back|
|Button Grass plain|
|Looking back on the ridge I’d come down|
|Tired but satisfied; 14 km and 6+ hours later…a great day hike!|
|Ronney Creek, the start of the 6 day Overland Track- a bucket list item|
|Drying gear in the room, same as it ever was…|
|Cradle Mnt Hotel lounge with fireplace|
|Thylacine art display- a powerful image of a lost Eden…|
The hotel also has an attached art gallery, and a wonderful, permanent display on the Thylacine, or Tasmanian Tiger. The last one known died in a Launceston Zoo in 1937, and there are even primitive movies of it. A totally unique, striped marsupial canine- unlike any other creature in the world. Now considered extinct, but alive in the imaginations of many Tasmanians; lost in hiding under the trackless forests of SW Tasmania. Do you still believe…?
It’s an intriguing idea, and a potent symbol of the lost wilderness heritage of Tasmania; holding a similar mythical status as the Bison to the plains of North America. There have even been movements advocating cloning the Thylacine back into existence….But, that may be unnecessary in the end…. If such a creature could still exist in the modern world, it would only be in a wilderness such as exists in SW Tasmania.
|Related to the Tasmanian Devil, but even more rare|
Driving the winding mountain roads back to Launceston, I spotted a large, spotted mammal by the roadside. I hit the brakes and turned around. Sure enough, endangered species roadkill… A Spotted Tailed Quoll; head trauma, fresh, looked like it was curled up asleep. A large, very aggressive and secretive nocturnal predator and now endangered, it’s the closest I’ll ever get to one in the field. Tragic as well, that there’s one less in the world today.
|Spotted Tailed Quoll. Boot tip for scale|
So after a few wonderful nights at Cradle Mountain, and still sore from the hikes, it was back to Launceston, and the justification for the trip- to locum at the ED in Launceston General Hospital. It’s a bit stressful to show up in an ED full of strangers and basically be in charge. The crew was great and very competent; and at around 50K visits/ year it’s big enough to have double Consultant cover, so I wasn’t ever entirely on my own. As a musician, I liken it to playing with strangers…Everyone can talk whatever game they want. But when playing with strangers, there’s nowhere to hide. Within several minutes, everyone knows exactly your level of play- you can’t fake it…Same in an ED, you can’t fake this game…everyone knows pretty quickly your level of play…..I like to think I held my own…
The hospital puts us up at the Quest downtown. It’s a really nice apartment suite with full kitchen in a re-habbed heritage building. Pretty handy and sweet as…
|The Post Office clock tower, a Victorian landmark|
Launceston’s compact downtown is chockful of wonderful, intact heritage buildings; Federal, Georgian, Victorian, Art Deco. Many are refitted into restaurants and cafes featuring Tasmania’s local bounty. An easy city to enjoy and explore.
LGH is a modern, regional tertiary hospital with all the services and mod cons expected. Subspecialty care like NICU, Burns, Neuro are sent on south to Hobart, or if really specialized, across Bass Strait to Melbourne. I did three 10 hour shifts, that, while busy and mildly stressful, passed uneventfully. I hope to return in future, as I love to explore Tasmania!
|Capacious Ambo bay|
|The original Customs House on the North Esk River|
|Incredible workmanship and detail|
|Bridges over the South Esk, Cataract Gorge behind|
|North Esk River Levee|
|James Boag Brewery building|
|James Boag Brewery museum|
Launceston, though 70 kms inland, began in 1806 as an important Van Deiman’s Land (now Tasmania) colony port. It’s sited where the North and South Esk Rivers join to form the Tamar River, one of Australia’s longest navigable rivers. Thus, it’s surrounded by rich, flat agricultural lands that guaranteed it’s success as an important very early settlement. Tasmania, called the Apple Isle, still ships vast amounts of high quality agricultural produce to mainland Australia. It’s a fascinating history of settlers carving a progressive, wealthy, agricultural community out of wilderness by sheer tenacity;
not unlike the settlement of the American West.
|Thylacine statue, downtown Launceston|
So, I’ll end this Tasmanian trilogy with an image of a group of Thylacines. The symbol of Tasmania; an image of enduring wildness, and a lost, primordial Eden; one that still exists in large measure here in Tasmania. The Apple Isle; a place where colonial English horticulture resides alongside brooding wilderness. A place wild enough where Thylacines could really still exist. Do you still believe…?
I do….DDU 🙂
|G’Day from Cradle Mountain/ Dove Lake Tasmania, with my wild wombat friend|
|QANTAS link to jump over Bass Strait|
I’d just returned from a locum stint in NW Tassie, the subject of my last DDU, when I got a call requesting a return engagement. Good $$, nice folks, functional ED in a beautiful place….easy to say “Yes”; and with a little advanced planning, even an opportunity to see some interesting new sights along the way.
|Northern coast of Tasmania|
|Devonport main terminal…2 gates|
|Rocky Cape NP, over tulip fields|
|Clifftop walk at Table Cape|
|Table Cape heritage lighthouse|
|The platinum sheen of Bass Strait dominating the horizon|
Another round of beautiful, sunny weather, with Bass Strait lying calm and brilliant under the crisp autumn sky. Locals informed me that the Strait’s northern shores, that break onto the south coast of Victoria, are wild and deadly. Here, the high alpine mountains of Tasmania block the prevailing Southwesterlies, leaving the northern coastline in a large and calm lee. Surprisingly, more like a lake here than an infamously treacherous strait.
|Wallaby on the edge of a farm field|
Another surprise is that NW Tassie grows the largest area of Tulip bulbs in the southern hemisphere, even shipping bulbs to Holland. In October the landscape is awash in multi-hued bands of Tulip flowers. Who knew?
|Fossil Bluff, the lower grey band is half a billion years old…!|
|These small shells are over 20 million years old!|
At Fossil Bluff, in Wynyard, there are three distinct layers of sedimentary and igneous rock that reveal the multiple volcanic epochs that shaped Tasmania. The grey underlayer is over 500 million years old! The sedimentary sandstone containing the fossil shell layer is around 22 m, and the overlying volcanic Basalt/ Dolerite soils that support vegetation are relatively young, at 13m years. Gives you a different perspective on old age I suppose!
|Dove Lake outlet stream|
After working two busy evening shifts, I had a day off and made the drive to Cradle Mountain and the world famous Dove Lake, only 90 minutes of very rural, forested two-lane away. Unfortunately, it was also the only overcast day of the week. Mountain weather…you just plan and go. It still always a good time. The weather up there was much cooler, with a light mist falling all day. I had hoped to summit Cradle Mnt., but was satisfied with the beautiful 5 km hike around Dove Lake
|The world famous view of Cradle Mnt above Dove Lake…just not today!..|
|Your DDU- always happy in the field|
|Gum and beach|
|A type of heath- 20 ft tall Martian invasion!|
From the NP setup, you can tell that in summer season this place gets mobbed….shuttle buses and cattle gates etc…On my visit, it was almost empty. Walking in the quiet, cool mist, the effect was magical; like walking through an alien terrarium filled with strange plants you’ve never encountered.
|A botanist’s dream landscape- very exotic, with a touch of foliage even|
There’s a beautiful boardwalk with overlooks and benches around the entire lake, likely to protect rare plants from being loved to death.
|Fagus-or Mountain Beech foliage|
|Gum detail- a eucalypt, the only hint you are still in Australia|
|Cloud cover lifting briefly over Dove Lake|
While standing glassing the landscape, I heard a soft snuffling sound off in the bush. On investigating, only 10 yards off the trail there was a large Wombat placidly feeding on a Button Grass. My first wild Wombat! He (or she) let me walk right up and get a few close shots- totally ignored me…These impressively large, groundhog-like animals live in underground burrows, and are vegetarian grazers. About the size of a medium pig and similarly stout and muscular. Surprisingly, they are also marsupials, and thus, related to kangaroos.
|The Dove Lake boathouse, scene of 1000 calendar photos|
|The million dollar shot…half price today…:-)|
|Another friendly Wombat, out on the Overland Track|
|Farm fields above Burnie|
|North West Regional Hospital, Burnie, TAS|
After another two challenging evening shifts, with overnight call, I was free to explore. The plan was to drive to Launceston, the island’s second largest city, in north-central Tassie, on the Tamar River; spend the night and following day, then fly back to Brisbane late that evening. Lots to see and do in these parts….let’s roll…
|Penguin town foreshore park|
|Town namesake and mascot- the Fairy Penguin|
|Heritage church, Penguin, TAS|
Surprisingly, northern TAS is becoming a retirement destination for green-minded elders; drawn by the slower pace, lower cost of living and the benign, three season climate. There’s also a robust local food, wine and seafood culture of very high standard. Like a maritime version of Vermont in some ways…
|Devonport Lighthouse, Mersey River|
|Tamar River valley vineyards|
Turning inland, and 90 rolling, rural minutes SE from the NW coast lies the Tamar River valley and Launceston, a compact city of 90K; founded in 1806, very early by Aussie standards. Situated where the North and South Esk Rivers join to form the Tamar, it sits in a verdant, temperate agricultural basin; notable especially for being the perfect climate to produce outstanding cool-climate wines and fruit.
Right outside of the city limits lies the Tamar Islands Wetlands, an internationally significant migratory waterfowl sanctuary for birds traveling between eastern Asia and Antarctica. There’s a beautiful visitor”s center, and extensive boardwalks out to blinds and viewing platforms.
|A Lowland Copperhead, large and toxic, but sunning peacefully.|
|A Black Swan- they really do exist!|
|Tamar Islands Wetlands Headquarters|
|Launceston Pedestrian Mall|
Launceston is one of the oldest and most intact city centers in Australia, containing a wealth of Colonial, Federal and Victorian heritage buildings. Most have been creatively re-purposed. Launceston has a growing reputation as a gastronomic destination- leveraging the Tamar and wider Tasmanian bounty into a thriving farm to plate food and drinking culture. A Tasmanian whiskey, Sullivan’s Cove, was recently named the world’s best whiskey in an international competition! Who knew?
|The Waratah Heritage B&B, c 1860’s. My pad for the night..|
I stayed in a heritage-listed house on the hill above the City Gardens; much more intriguing than a standard business hotel, and no more expensive.Well-used and homey, I found it ideal, with all it’s quirky charm. A Waratah is a native shrub with a distinct, large red flower. It’s the state flower of New South Wales.
|12 foot ceilings and a genteel, faded glory- perfect…|
|Evening street scenes, Launnie, TAS|
|Interesting dedication sign|
|B&B Tea Party!|
|And a full-on, British fry-up before hitting the road, with HP Sauce even!|
|Waratah door detail|
|Tree ferns and roosting peacocks|
Well-fueled and out on the road early, I was headed for Cataract Gorge, an amazing canyon complex, with extensive hiking trails, right outside of downtown.
|Tea House, Cataract Gorge|
Cataract Gorge is a well-loved park and garden complex dating from the 1860’s and a social center of Launceston. Very beautiful and well-maintained.
|Victorian Bandstand in the gorge|
|You don’t mess with the Ladies of Launceston…|
|One of several impressive Victorian bridges over the river|
|Hiker’s shelter c 1925|
|A newer cantilevered overlook up the Gorge|
|Another bridge further up the Gorge|
|Duck Reach heritage power station|
The weather was perfect for a hike; cool, crisp, sunny autumn day- like an apple ripening…
2.5 km up the gorge is a most unexpected find. In what I thought was an active power station, I found a museum to the first municipal hydro-power station in the southern hemisphere! It’s a really engaging story of very early large scale electric generation.
|Original blue stone bridge pylon c 1886|
|Interior of the museum|
As you walk into this remote building, the lights come on automatically and a movie starts on a concrete retaining wall telling the story. Between 1915 and 1922, Launceston, then a city of some 20K, was the most extensively electrified city in Australasia! Who knew? The engineering was accomplished at a time when a debate actually occurred as to whether this new “electricity” might be a public health hazard. But English engineering and science prevailed and led the way for major advances in the wide-spread adoption of urban electrification world- wide, over the next several decades. All originating in this small, remote, provincial town; one that just happened to have the perfect natural setting for hydro-electric power generation. A really fascinating hike, for sure!
|An original turbine|
|Original Power Plant crew; natty dressers all…|
Given it’s riverside location, the plant was destroyed several times over the years during catastrophic flooding, but repaired and used until it was finally supplanted in the 1950’s by an upstream dam; but it’s original innovation remains a point of Tasmanian pride. Modern power is generated by Tasmania’s extensive network of hydroelectic reservoirs, all modeled after the original project at Duck Reach over 100 years ago.
|Back down Cataract Gorge|
|Hydrangeas and Fern Trees|
The fine day was getting on…I had one final stop on my itinerary; lunch at the acclaimed Josef Chromy vineyards in Relbia, 10 km south of Launnie, right out near the airport, conveniently enough! Considered one of Tasmania’s marquee food and wine destinations, it’s a bucket-list type of place. The proprietor came to Australia as a refugee from the communist take-over of Czechoslovakia, as a penniless 19 yo, in 1950. Through hard work and perseverance as a butcher, he made his fortune and invested in Tasmania’s then fledgling wine industry. He was involved in the start-up of many of Tassie’s most renowned vineyards; finally starting the self-named Josef Chromy in 1993 at the age of 76. Everything about this operation speaks to impeccable standards of quality.
The actual dining room and cellar door are compact, elegant and quite low-key. They are famous for their 4 course lunch with matching wines; but I wasn’t famished after the morning’s hike, and was late for lunch to boot. Arriving at the nearly empty restaurant, Sarina, the Kiwi manager and Michelle, her seasoned waitress, had plenty of time to chat with a stranger all the way from Boston, Mass, USA. When I ordered the oysters and cheese platter, a light lunch, they laughed and said that’s what they both would’ve ordered! What followed was a leisurely, memorable lunch and wine-tasting that comes with my highest recommendation.
|Sarina, manager and a real pro|
|A light lunch…wow!|
|Moulting Bay Tassie oysters- beautiful|
|The scenery out the restaurant windows|
|Beautiful food and wines|
|Halfway done and on to the Pinot Noir|
To my taste, the cool climate wines were justifiably well-regarded, esp the Pinot and the Sav. Blanc. The Reisling, tart and a bit green, and the Merlot…errr, no…needs more heat…or something…
Go with the excellent Pinot as a sure thing…I will definitely return for the full-on lunch or the occasional themed dinner. Stay tuned to this station…:-)…Pictures to follow…
And thanks to Sarina and her wonderful staff for the lively chat and fortifying lunch…top notch!
|Outdoor lounging spaces|
|Wedding central in season|
|Late harvest Botrytis dessert wine grapes, unpicked as yet|
Thus fortified for the trip home, I made my way to Launceston airport for the evening flight home to Brisbane.
|Launceston Airport, modern but compact|
|Not something you see in many airports|
|Two tickets to paradise|
|The ride home|
|Tamar River estuary|
|Low Head and the mouth of the Tamar onto Bass Strait|
|Cataract Gorge Garden foliage|
So, flying north towards Brisbane in the gathering dusk, it was time to reflect on another successful trip. Lots of rural Emergency Medicine and a chance to further explore the wild, cultured, down to earth yet sophisticated island State of Tasmania. I believe this place is a real sleeper, and I think Tassie’s remoteness works in it’s favor going into the future; it’s so pristine! And with so much packed into such a compact island, it’s a wonderful place to adventure. In fact, I’m already scheduled to locum at Launceston General Hospital ED in early June. Please stay tuned and accompany me as we explore more of the wild and sophisticated sides of Tasmania! All the best, DDU, wandering ED doc for hire…:-)!!
|TASSIE- Australia’s island state|
|Commuter flight across the Bass Strait, Melbourne to Devonport|
I had the opportunity do do a six day locums stint at an ED in rural NW Tasmania over Easter. They were desperate for coverage, and I needed an adventure, so why not?! It was about work, and kind of stressful to start and end a new job over less than a week, but was a great adventure indeed! I managed to get out and about some between shifts as well.
|Entrance to Port Phillip Bay and the Mornington Peninsula|
|Fertile, well-tended fields of Tasmania|
Tassie is Australia’s Island state. It has a dark history as the repository of the worst of the recidivists during the British penal colony years, 1803-1853, when around 75 K convicts were transported here. It also has a very complex topography with jagged, glaciated peaks over 5000 ft, numerous rivers, and some of the largest and wildest temperate rainforest remaining in the Southern Hemisphere. I hadn’t been since around 2013, and was keen to see the rural NW part of the state.
|Nice house and car provided|
|Sunset over Burnie and Table Cape|
|Concrete penguin nesting boxes.|
Burnie, a town of 30K, is transitioning from a paper mill and industrial past into an arts and ecotourist center for the NW. They are famous for being a rookery for little Tasmanian penguins, which nest nightly right in town.
|Moulting Little Penquin|
April (Fall here) is moulting season, and the numbers aren’t as high as in mid-summer. But I did manage to catch a glimpse of some as they troop ashore at dusk, after a day of feeding out at sea. Very cute little creatures, about seagull-sized.
|An unfortunate close-up, he’s dead…|
Tassie, called The Apple Isle, has been vigorously marketing itself as an adventure and eco-tourist destination world-wide. It also has a very deep and pristine local food and wine culture; being esp. highly-regarded for cool climate whites, pinot noir and champagne. Being an island in the middle of nowhere, the seafood is abundant, fresh and world class. Lying in the direct path of the southern “Roaring 40’s”, it was also in the direct path for sailing ships on the way to Sydney and the Australian East coast from Europe. Thus, it was one of the earliest settled parts of Australia, beginning in 1803. Hobart, the capital on the southern coast, is actually the second oldest Aussie city, after Sydney; and the state as a whole boasts the largest collection of intact heritage buildings in Australia. It’s really an island that’s full of surprises, and well worth a visit; even if it is pretty out of the way!
|A live one, about to nest for the night|
|North West Regional Hospital|
NWRH is the third largest hospital in Tassie, covering the entire NW quadrant of the state, as well as King (and other) islands in Bass Strait. It’s a vital resource in this wild and sparsely populated region. Given it’s isolation, it has a surprisingly robust sub-specialty base, and is new and modern.
|What am I doing in Burnie, TAS??!|
|Burnie, overlooking Bass Strait|
One afternoon I was able to visit Guide Falls, about 10 km inland from the coast. It gets rural and then wild, very quickly out there! Not a huge falls, but a very charming one. A unique feature is the extensive crenelated stone, actually Dolerite, that are ancient extrusions of lava magma.
Per Wikipedia, Tasmania has the world’s largest deposits of Dolerite- so you heard it here first… It’s like walking on neatly arranged pavers. Pretty cool really, for a bunch of old rocks….!
|Guide Falls, around 30 ft high, ends in a blind Dolerite canyon|
|Dolerite wall of octagonal shafts all fused together|
|Even the trees feel wild and wind-twisted|
|Tassie landscapes, well-tended yet also wild|
|Burnie Port- a large wood chip producer|
I had most of a day off between finishing at 1500 and having to be back for the evening shift at 1400 the following day. The weather was perfect for a drive. My destination, the heritage village of Stanley and “The Nut” a local coastal landmark, 70 km west.
|The Nut, a curious coastal mesa on Bass Strait|
|Heritage Building, Stanley|
|A Citroen rally, below The Nut|
|You can ride…|
|or hike…short and steep…I hiked…|
The Nut is really unique and a major draw in these parts. A sheer, flat-topped, stone mesa sitting out at the end of a large, flat, crescentic spit of land. The views on a day like I had are 360 degrees and stunning. The tiny Heritage hamlet of Stanley sits right at it’s base. The cemetery dates from 1824- pretty ancient by Aussie standards. What was once an isolated fishing village has been beautifully restored with nice shops and cafes. Quite a lively little place on the day I visited.
|“Highfield”, a heritage country estate at world’s end….|
|Windblown summit of the Nut, it’s a 2 km walk around the perimeter|
|DDU feeling on top o’ the world…|
|Tiny chairlift at summit|
|Still warm enough for palms!|
|Heritage graveyard of the early settlers|
For reference, Tassie is about twice the size of Switzerland (pop 8 million) and has about 500k residents; so 1/16 as populated as Switzerland!
Approx. 65% of the residents can trace direct lineage to the original 10K settlers, the “founding families”. Until pretty recently, it was an isolated existence at the bottom of the world.
Around 45% of the entire island is protected parkland, including the vast World Heritage designated SW mountains and forests.
|Not a sign you see everyday!|
Taking some local advice, I detoured down a side road and ended up on Boat Harbor Beach- said to be one of the finest beaches in Tasmania. It really was stunning, with the clear Caribbean blue waters backed up by treeless grassy hills reminiscent of central coast/ Big Sur California. I was told it was also some of the coldest water you will ever swim in, but didn’t test that theory out….!
So after two more late ED shifts that included some pretty serious rural-style trauma (involving Quad bikes, table saws and farm machinery…) It was time to wing it back home to Brisbane. The trip was great, the staff at NWRH skilled and really fun to work with. Thanks to them for making me fell welcome.
Say, this itinerant doc life seems to work out for me…Maybe I’ll make a career out of it…!
|Devonport airport, where the cows watch you taxi…seriously!|
|North coast of Tassie, and Devonport|
|Mainland Australia, Victoria coastline|
|Melbourne CBD in the rain|
|Gold Coast, Queensland in evening light|
|Wellington Point, Queensland, right near home…|
|Brisbane International, home!|
So, a new sort of adventure…Locums ED doc. I really enjoyed the experience, and might be scheduling some more soon. I’ve always liked my Emergency Med a bit on the wild and raw side…And there’s plenty of that Down Under. Stay tuned as we explore the scruffy corners of this amazing continent together! Best, DDU
|The newest Aussies- The Nolan Gang!|
|Mother’s Day breakfast on the veranda|
It’s now April 2017, I’ve got a block of time off and I’m trying to catch up on some past news. The biggest by far is that way back in June 2016 we crossed a major milestone by becoming dual citizens of the USA and Australia. This is the end result of along road that ended in an outcome I had never expected or anticipated in my life. How did THAT happen?!
It’s a long story full of surprising twists and turns. None more surprised at the outcome than me….except maybe Stephanie!
Basically, we came to Australia for a few year’s sabbatical in 2012 on a 457 long stay (4 year) work visa; offered due to my advanced training in Emergency Medicine. After a year or so, the hospital came to me and surprised me by offering to sponsor us for Permanent Residency (PR) in exchange for 2 more year’s commitment to them. I was happy to say yes, as I didn’t want to move on yet anyway. PR turned out to be quite the hassle to obtain, including health checks with Xrays and lab work for all seven of us, fingerprinting and FBI background checks from back in the States for me and Stephanie, and around $3000 in fees.
|“Peter Pan” school play, Luke and Claire as the Lost Boys|
|True Blue Aussie, mates…|
|Anticipation on becoming a little Aussie|
Once you have PR, stay in Australia two more years and keep a clean record and you are eligible to apply for Citizenship, at nominal cost- though a lot of paperwork ensues. Adults then need to sit for a written 50 question exam, and on passing, be scheduled for a swearing-in ceremony. They’re always held on Australia Day in 26 January, and then various other times and locations depending on demand. You generally attend in your home electorate, the Redland Shire in our case. In June, as our big day approached, excitement mixed with mild apprehension. It’s a major commitment to swear allegiance to another country; many people have to surrender their native birthright to attain Aussie Citizenship. Luckily both Australia and the USA allow for dual citizenship, but there are some voting, tax and residency complications that might arise. That said, Australia is a wonderful, clean, progressive country with a bright future. Citizenship confers full rights to us and all the kids for life, without limitation. Also, a trans-Tasman agreement allows Aussies and Kiwis the right to live, work and retire in either country; thereby opening up opportunities to live and work in New Zealand with little limit as well. All in all, a no-brainer to say yes to.
|The Big Night…|
At least that’s how I felt. I’m sure it’s a bit different for everyone, depending on life circumstances. Around 24% of the Australian population of 24 million people was born in a foreign country, which is higher than the USA. And historically, until very recently with the advent of cheap jet travel,, a move to Australia was invariably one way and permanent.
The ceremony itself was really touching and classy. 128 new residents with families and supportive friends almost filling the performance center auditorium. Dignitary speeches, a few local choirs, patriotic singalongs; it was a full evening, an event even… Very moving to become a full part of the dynamic historical flow that is the Australian nation. It’s remarkable to consider what this country has been able to achieve; going from impoverished prisoners scratching out a wilderness living from crude bark huts in Botany Bay to the modern skyscrapers of Sydney Harbor in just over 200 years. A federated Commonwealth only since 1901. Truly incredible, and a lasting testament to the British genius for engineering and governance. I hope that the Nolan family can make some small contribution to the ongoing success of this venture!
|The Nolan Clan- Australia’s gain!!|
|Australian, Queensland, Aboriginal and Torres Island flags|
|Proud new citizens of Australia, with the Mayor|
In turn, we all got up to receive the handshake and official parchment document from the Redland Shire mayor, and also each got a potted palm to plant as a welcome to our new country. Very nice touch. We then went into town for a giant Chinese food banquet at the kid’s request- The Happy Garden…indeed….
|New citizens, and very lucky kids…|
|Cate getting giddy…|
|The official document-suitable for framing|
|Proud Aussie-American. True (red, white and) Blue!|
So, it was a night to remember. A defining moment in our adventure down under. Who knows how this trip, these paths taken, will impact and reverberate in our lives and the lives of our kids and grandkids for generations to come. It seemed like a good idea at the time, but like many things- the final repercussions and outcomes are simply unknowable. Good? Bad? It’s uncertain, and I’m comfortable with that. For right now, we are dual, and that’s very cool. So, be careful when taking your next step- you never know where you’ll end up; but may your ride be interesting indeed!
Best to you all from our other home in the Southern Hemisphere.
DDU and the Nolan clan 🙂
|Aidan and DDU above Harris Lake- Routeburn Track, South Island New Zealand|
|Brisbane International Terminal|
I’d scheduled to attend the annual Australasian Emergency Medicine conference in Queenstown, NZ. Stephanie couldn’t make it for logistical reasons, so Aidan, our 14 yo Huck Finn, happily played hooky from school to spend 10 days road-tripping with Dad in SINZ. Experiential learning…It turned out to be a fantastic father-son bonding experience.
|Aidan in-country, Auckland, NZ|
|Charming NZ weather|
Past readers will remember how excellent I thought hiking the Milford Track (in January 2014) with Ultimate Hikes was.This was the perfect opportunity to schedule the Routeburn for three days prior to the conference. At 35 km over three days, including the entire second day above timberline, it’s considered one of the finest of the nine Great Walks in NZ, and is said to be ” 2/3 as long and twice as hard” as the Milford. We shall see dear readers…
|Aidan, downtown Queenstown, on Lake Wakatipu|
|Lake Wakatipu evening|
|Hike morning, 0530, from the hostel|
We got into QT late in the evening and missed the hike orientation. Up at 0500 to make the bus down to Te Anau, a 2 1/2 hour ride. It was a bit early, pre-prime season in mid-November, the trails open only for a few weeks. Less crowded, but the risk being less settled weather. It was looking a bit iffy, with reports of snow and rain showers, especially in the big mountains to the south…right where we were heading…!
|Private bus, nice ride…|
Being early season, we only had 24 hikers along, making the trip pretty relaxed and open feeling. In high season, the 40 hiker limit is filled daily, months in advance. Ultimate Hikes was as remembered; friendly, encouraging and very smooth in all respects. I’ll admit to being a bit apprehensive, contemplating hiking over 25 rugged miles with a light pack in cold wet weather…a bit too much to be considered “fun” ? I’m sure everyone was silently thinking the same thoughts as we headed south into the mountains…
|Wild and isolated Lake Te Anau|
|Above Lake Te Anau, under a light ceiling|
|Starting out in the rain|
Suddenly, the bus pulls into the trail head; in a blur of activity you become energized by the wet, cool breeze, and you enter the primeval forest…the hike begins.
|Ancient New Zealand beeches|
The sound of water is everywhere in this green, captivating world. Water music surrounds you and other concerns recede…You focus only on the trail ahead…Three days of separation from the outside world…. How perfect…. Parts of the Southwest New Zealand ( Fiordland) World Heritage area get over 7 meters of rainfall a year, more than the Amazon basin. It’s very wet….plan for that and you’re good to go.
|Guide Sam, morning tea, Lake Howden shelter|
|Hear the water music…|
|Earland Falls, very cold and very wet|
Earland Falls, thunderous and bracingly cold in full flood, at 250 feet, is a highlight of the first day’s gradual ascent above Lake Howden. By now, we are warming up and finding the rhythm of the trail.
|Regenerating Ribbonwood Trees in an avalanche zone, aka “The Orchard”|
|Aidan nearing timberline|
After a steep down section we arrive at Lake MacKenzie Lodge, our stop for the night. The ceiling is lifting, holding out hope for clear summits tomorrow, but it’s been 12 km, 5-6 hours in the cold and wet. Call me a wimp if you must, but a hot shower and a bunk will be much appreciated tonight!
|NZ eye filet with au jus, roast potatoes and asparagus…yes, please…|
|Lord of the Rings forest|
|Lake MacKenzie evening|
After a somewhat restless sleep we awake to a steady drizzle. This will be the hardest, most exposed day. Through hikers coming over the ridge are saying they walked through three days of clouds, and saw no peaks…beautiful, spiritual, but not ideal perhaps…
|Lake MacKenzie morning|
|The boys, feeling pretty good|
|Guide Izzy, leading off the morning|
|Exposed trail climbing out of Lake MacKenzie|
|The lodge far below|
|American newlyweds Ian and Joanne at Ocean Peak Corner|
When we get over the ridge at Ocean Peak Corner, a stinging westerly wind, 20-30 km/hr, is spitting sleet into our eyes and burning exposed skin…It’s a bit of a shock that abates once we tuck down onto the slightly more sheltered Hollyford Face. This is a long, exposed section above timberline that offers wild, stunning vistas as the ceiling lifts higher. Exciting and enlivening…!
|Guide Kate, rugged up and loving the elements|
|And then a rainbow suddenly materializes far below us, arching over the Hollyford River valley…!|
|Glaciated peaks across the Hollyford Valley….mystical stuff…|
|The Hollyford Face|
|The trail ahead to Harris Saddle|
|Aidan and Guide Brydie, a great team|
|Aidan and Dadude, on the Hollyford Face|
|Mount Cook Lily|
|Harris Saddle shelters|
|Feeling confident and psyched, Harris Saddle shelter|
|Moving out, weather moving in…|
|The trail above Lake Harris|
|A great bonding experience with my buddy Aidan|
|Lake Harris under rapidly changeable weather|
|The way down, into the Routeburn Valley|
The second day was a wild, challenging hike with sharp winds, rain, sleet and snow flurries. The rapidly changing weather, with sudden sun shafts illuminating the ragged peaks overhead added an unpredictable, exciting edge to the adventure. Much more dynamic and energizing than placid, clear blue skies. It was Aidan’s first long hike above timberline- he was amazed by the austere environment and the high energy among the group…The start of a lifelong love affair with the high country I hope…Truly an ultimate hike!
|High country, sub-alpine bowl|
|Nothing I’d rather be doing…|
|The origin of the Routeburn|
|Hiking down into the Routeburn Valley|
|Our bunk for the night- sure beats a wet tent!|
Night two was spent at the stunning Routeburn Falls Lodge, situated right below the falls, at timberline, and overlooking the famed Routeburn Valley. After a wild 12 km, 6 hour hike across the raw, high open ridges, it was a pleasure to contemplate a hot shower, warm bed…and, oh yes, NZ rack of lamb…with a central Otago Pinot Noir of course…
|Looking down valley from the lodge|
|Warm kale soup|
|NZ rack of lamb…yes, please…!|
|Orange creamy torte-thingy…yup…|
|Izzy and Aidan experiencing calorie-loading bliss…|
|And even a hot water bottle for the sheets…really…!|
Because the trip wasn’t chock-full, Ultimate Hikes was kind enough to give Aidan and me a private room. That really helps if you’re stuck with a snoring stranger… makes for a horrendous night, trust me…! Another reason to love Ultimate Hikes folks, they are simply the best…!
|Cowboys on Everest, Dan Pryor…wherever you are…|
|The whole kit-bag|
|The Routeburn Valley|
After 40 years of backcountry adventures, of varying levels of danger/ excitement, you might think I’d feel guilty about “selling out” on such a posh hike. Well, perhaps aging knees and wisdom have banished the purist in me- not in the least! Besides the aforementioned hot shower, bunk and tasty prepared meals and libations, the primary benefit of such an arrangement is the need to carry only 10-15 lbs of kit, allowing one to turn a potentially grueling ordeal into a mere skip down the lane…and after all, you still have to trek the miles, all by yourself…Highly, highly recommended…worth every penny…value for money…etc etc etc..:-)
|A real sense of accomplishment, Routeburn flats, day three|
|Izzy and Aidan in the Beech forests|
|The old guy still got it, well, sort of….!|
|The final swing bridge|
To make a special day even more memorable, Ultimate Hikes then takes the whole team to the famous Glenorchy tavern on the end of Lake Wakatipu for a summing up, certificate ceremony and a final farewell. It’s been an amazing three day journey together. Challenges met and overcome, large and small; lifetime memories made.
|Catherine, Jeremy, Ric, Geoff and Rob- Cheers mates, well done..!|
|Our fantastic guides: Kate, Brydie, Sam and Izzy|
|Cheers mate, good on ya…!|
|Keepin’ it local, folks…|
|Lake Wakatipu from the bus|
|Back to reality, and cellphones, Queenstown|
So, three days of tech-free, primordial bliss in the forests and on the ridges of Fiordland NP, South Island NZ. I had a few doubts about creaky knees and a gimpy L hip, that felt better after the hike than before! Aidan had never been on a multi-day hike, and was blown away; but may have to lower his culinary standards for the next several decades of road-trips with friends. For those readers contemplating a trip to SINZ, just “yes…” Please do yourself a favor and go, though plan to get a bit damp. For those with a limber step, a stout heart and a few extra coins in pocket; seriously consider enlisting Ultimate Hikes to assist in logistics, permitting and meal planning. It truly is a most excellent group of people, and a smooth operator. Both of my trips with UH has easily surpassed my expectations, and made what could have been a daunting trip to organize a mere skip down the lane. I have no financial interest in giving them DDU’s highest recommendation as an adventure traveler’s best friend and resource on South Island New Zealand.
|DDU and Aidan high above Queenstown, NZ|
|Celebrating a great accomplishment…|
Until my next post from the vast southern hemisphere….
Happy trails, Doc Down Under and Aidan Nolan, Brisbane, Australia
|Paradise found…? Well, it’s pretty darn close…|
Well, it was never even supposed to happen. Claire wanted to go somewhere exotic to celebrate her “Sweet 16th”. Turns out there was a great Emergency Medicine conference in Fiji right on the big day, and I already had vacation scheduled. BINGO! Suddenly, we were on our way to Fiji, just over 3 hours East from Brisbane, Australia. Our first trip into the South Pacific, this was a “girl’s trip”, meaning deluxe with lots of food and lounging about. The boys stayed home in Brisbane with friends, another miracle of sorts…
|First trip on our new Aussie passports|
|Three hours east and you are in a different world|
|A rice-stuffed pineapple….yum!|
The conference was held at Denarau Island, a multi-resort area just south of Nadi. Purists may sniff; it is after all, not the “real” Fiji. But as a quick getaway, it provides a very relaxing and even magical tropical escape. You first notice the warmth and relaxed attitude of the all-Fijiian staff. “Bula” means welcome…
|Radisson Blu lobby, all open air|
You wake up to soft warm breezes and gently lapping waves, definitely full tropical. Over breakfast, Fijiian musicians serenade with their distinctly high, lulling harmonies accompanied by acoustic guitars and ukuleles. A great way to greet the morning…!
|Setting the mood…play on brothers…..|
|Moses, the skipper|
Right off, we were booked for an all day snorkel and cat cruise with Coral Cats. They were #1 on Trip Advisor, so we booked ahead, anticipating a great day…. Stephanie stayed ashore to avoid severe sun exposure and perhaps a touch of sea-sickness. Perfect weather and we headed out to the Mamanucca Islands a few hours sail West of Nadi…
|Chillin’ and grillin’|
|Fresh local fruit platter|
|After the first snorkel|
The water was warm and calm, with good visibility-50-60 feet. Decent coral with little bleaching, lots of colorful fish, though nothing big…no sharks, rays etc…Beautiful experience…Then it was into Musket Cove for a Fiji BBQ lunch, a nice break and stretch.
The multiple smaller islands and shallow, turquoise waters felt somewhat Caribbean, but with a distinct Polynesian/ Melanesian flavor….the South Pacific indeed!
|Musket Cove resort|
|Cate, now 11 yo|
|Claire, 16 yo tomorrow…|
|Our ride for the day…|
|Dave with his incredible palm creations|
|Setting the troll for the run home|
After lunch, the second snorkel was even better. A long sloping coral bank, covered with soft coral forests, and some Staghorns, Shelves etc. Clouds of fishes of all sizes and descriptions, including larger Parrot and Triggerfish in the deeper reaches where the corals dropped out of site. Superb snorkeling experience…
|The run home to Port Denarau|
The entire day was just so well-paced and handled. The crew, company, food, scenery, snorkeling and overall vibe was just one of gentle relaxation, exotic land and seascapes, with a bit of adventure to top it all off. Coral Cats, #1 for good reason and even better than hoped. Highly recommended if in Nadi/ DI.
|All great days must come to an end…|
|Back ashore for an evening dip…|
|Linking up with Stephanie for sunset|
|Fiji Bitter sunset, it really doesn’t get any better folks….:-)…!|
|Traditional Fijiian dance and song under the stars|
The resorts each have free nightly activities and are focused on traditional Fijiian culture. You can witness multiple performances, including full dress traditional “Meke” ceremonies that are only seen in more remote villages on special occasions. Cynics may feel it’s staged, not “authentic”. Whatever…I found it added a lot to a specific sense of place and enriched each evening.
No doubt, given more time and planning, much of the “real” Fiji can be found in the hinterlands, and especially on multi-day sails into the over 330 islands that make up the country. Perhaps the subject of a future DDU: a 14 day sail and snorkel/ dive trip through the Yasawa group? Sigh….one can always dream….
|Relaxation, a vital component of any Fiji trip…|
|South Seas dreamscape|
A unique feature of DI is that six high-end resorts are contiguous and share a mile or so of uninterrupted beachfront facing West and North. You can walk freely among all the beautiful gardens, pools and water features and use any restaurants etc that strike your fancy. There are no roads, cars or distractions between the lawns and the shore. At night the entire beachfront is subtly lit by gas tiki torches under swaying coconut palms and tropical flowers. Restaurants are open air, with some tables out on the sand…The overall experience is one of soft, green escape. A fantasy perhaps, but a pleasantly persuasive one.
|Claire’s Sweet 16 Birthday party guests|
|A beautiful young lady on her big night|
|Proud Papa Nolan|
Then it was time for Claire’s sweet 16 birthday party. It all fell together like it was fated. We managed, with a little intrigue, to score a special birthday cake and have it delivered tableside, complete with Fijiian singing! A sudden tropical squall added to the excitement and soon gave way to a warm, humid evening under southern stars…
|Celebrating Stephanie’s big accomplishment too…!|
|Aussie’s best Mom!|
|Sister’s birthday mocktails|
|Happy Sweet 16, sweetheart Claire|
|The miracle cake|
|Lifetime memories with our wonderful young ladies|
|Another gorgeous day draws to a close…|
|Cate gone troppo|
|A traditional Meke ceremony|
|Girls dancing like a local…|
|Another day in paradise|
Oh, and the EM conference was great too! High level discussions, good content, nice snacks and afternoons off. Perfect balance!
|A ginger flower|
|A (very) friendly local…|
|Returning to port|
|An acquired taste love….|
|Last Fijiian evening, at least for a while…|
|Final family sunset in Fiji|
Suddenly, like all dreams, it was over…the sun rose on our last morning in Fiji. Up at 0500, a quick final look, a few snaps and into the waiting cab for Nadi airport and a return to reality… But it was a wonderful dream, one we hope to revisit someday…
|Hotel lobby goodbye|
|Nadi Airport, small but modern|
So, that’s the story of our adventures in the South Seas thus far. While paradise might not truly exist in this life, a reasonable approximation would be Fiji. As an entree, Denarau Island was perfect, hopefully whetting the appetite for future adventures further off the beaten track, in true Doc Down Under fashion. Thanks for joining again on the journey. I hope it was marginally educational as well as entertaining.
Until who knows when, I remain your faithful DDU. Still manning his duty station, now some years later, somewhere out in the South Pacific. Your kind comments and support always appreciated!
|Nolan clan, Christchurch, NZ airport, January 2016|
|Koala Christmas bears, Brisbane|
Everyone wanted to see New Zealand for a Christmas present. So, we planned an 18 night road trip covering both islands for January 2016. Trouble is, that’s high summer season down here; camper vans, cabins etc all sold out almost everywhere, six months in advance. A tip for anyone planning this trip: you can almost always get a spot if all you’re looking for is an unpowered tent space; you also have tons of flexibility, even at the last minute. So, we decided to do it old school; 7 people, two mountain tents, one Hiace Toyota van….New Zealand….. It was epic, and wonderful, if a bit cramped….!
|An exciting day!|
|In country, Aotearoa|
|Summer in NZ, “It’s a bit chilly…”|
We started out east of Auckland on the Coromandel peninsula, a beautiful area with forested mountain ranges above wild beaches and bluffs. Not heavily touristed; it’s more of a Kiwi family escape. Well worth checking out.
Cathedral Cove is the most famous landmark on this coastline, and pretty impressive, but there are many other fascinating features in this part of the world.
|Pohutukawa tree, flowering at Christmas-time, a Kiwi icon|
|New Zealand rainforest on hike to Cathedral Cove|
|Camp duty Cate…|
We stayed a few nights at Tiarua/ Pauanui. Beautiful small towns on a complex marine estuary. A small volcanic spire affords fantastic views of the surrounding landscapes.
|Owen, our baby boy…|
|Beautiful, but not a ‘stralian beach, mate…|
|Lake Rotorua, a flooded volcano crater|
|Our entire setup…keeping it simple folks|
Rotorua is famous for hot springs, geysers, mineral springs and all things geothermal. Hopefully you will camp well upwind…
|Tongariro National Park|
|Daughters with Mt Doom|
We then headed up to the high and wild Tongariro plateau. We initially planned to hike the stunning Tongariro alpine crossing; an 18 km trail up between two of the three volcanoes here. Brisk winds gusting to 50 km/ hr forced us to choose a lower, less exposed 14 km hike to some isolated lakes, and a perfect waterfall.
|On the trail to Mt Doom with Stephanie! I carry the ring of power…|
|Lower Tama Lake|
|Mt Doom, aka Ngauruhoe, LOTR was filmed here|
It’s hard to capture the vast, wind-swept austerity of this place on film. In my 40 years of serious hiking, I have to say, it’s an entirely unique and
intriguing environment. Well worth a detour and several days of exploring.
|Claire and Mt. Ruapehu|
|Daddy, Daughtie and Doom…|
|A frigid shower after a long hike|
|Feel the spray!|
And now, a brief digression…due to a glitch with a camera SD card, I lost several hundred photos; from Tongariro twilight, thru Wellington (cool, arty place), the epic crossing of Cook Strait to the South Island by ferry under blue skies and calm seas (lucky, as they cancel the ferries when seas are running over 8 meters (24 ft)! Also Marlborough wine country (bucolic…) and hiking in the sublime Abel Tasman National Park. Further losses, Westport, Pancake Rocks and the Franz Joseph and Fox glaciers… the entire west coast of SI NZ; stormy, moody and mystical. No place to live perhaps , but certainly a wonderful area to explore…Alas, locked in the confines of my memory with no photos to share….For those planning on that well-worn trip; yes, just plan on crap weather and head out…you’ll be well rewarded….. The photos pick back up climbing Haast Pass heading east and inland towards hip little Wanaka and Queenstown beyond.
|Aidan fishing NZ|
|Ditto Dad, I lost a nice trout right here…|
|Over Haast Pass, heading for Wanaka|
|A well earned hot tub, Wanaka|
|Alpenglow, Lake Wanaka|
|My #1 son and good buddy, Luke|
Next morning , up early, around the lake for a 50 km drive to the end of the gravel road in Mt Aspiring NP. The landscape here on the Central Otago plateau is the polar opposite of the wet, wild and windy west coast, only 30 miles away….much higher, drier and ranchy. Very reminiscent of western Montana-love it!!
|Swing Bridge start, a NZ icon|
Our goal, hiking the Rob Roy Valley Track, a stunning, varied 12 km trek that’s considered one of the best day hikes in NZ, and that’s saying a lot! We headed out under perfect blue skies, and the hike did not disappoint…in fact, better than advertised.
|Gonna be a great day|
After crossing the impressive swing bridge, the trail heads steadily up the valley through beech and fern-clad forest…Hobbit land comes to life…! Occasional openings in the forest canopy reveal massive glaciated peaks, shimmering in the intense sunlight, high above. Building plenty of anticipation to encourage you to keep moving ever higher…
The trail ends above stunted timberline in a huge glacial cirque. Plenty of open space to stretch out and have lunch with friends while being serenaded by the music of a hundred waterfalls, rivulets and rills. Truly a magical experience.
|Hiking the NZ lowlands generally means sheep as companions|
|The road back to Wanaka|
|A SINZ Rainbow…|
|Bogan Aussie party people….stop….!|
|Ma and Pa atop Mt Iron. Right over downtown Wanaka|
|Central Otago from Mt Iron|
|My excellent young men, Luke and Aidan|
|Cardrona Pass, the high road to Queenstown|
|Lake Wakatipu foreshore, Queenstown|
Right outside of Queenstown is the birthplace of bungy jumping, since 1988, at Kawarau Bridge. The adrenaline pumping visitor’s center is a mandatory stop. Though on this particular day, our teens deferred from making their leap of faith. Maybe next time…?
|“I don’t think so Dad…”|
|The next victim…|
|Relieved to be back on the road…!|
|The Church of the Good Shepard, c 1935, Tekapo|
|The sheepdog monument, Tekapo|
Moving further north, the Central Otago plateau gives way to a vast inland grazing area known as the Mackenzie country. This region was settled by settlers from Scotland and is comprised of large, remote sheep stations.
|Claire and Luke with Mt John behind|
Next morning dawned bright and dry. We hiked up Mt John for panoramic views of the surrounding Mackenzie country and to check out the telescopes operated by the University of Canterbury, due to the purity of the night skies in this region.
|Best way to spend a day…|
|Lake Tekapo, ice cold, even in summer…!|
Two hours north brings you to Christchurch and our destination. The city is recovering nicely from the devastating earthquakes of 2011. What were depressing vacant lots in the CBD, during my visit in January 2014, are now filled with foundations and rebar forms. Signs of life everywhere, but still a long way to go. Someone mentioned that the rebuilding of the Christchurch CBD was now the largest construction project in the southern hemisphere…I believe it!
|Avon River boathouse|
|Ongoing restoration of a heritage building|
The Botanic Garden sustained little damage, and is magnificent in full summer bloom in January down here.
|A Christmas display|
|Maori Greenstone (Pounamu) implements|
Equally impressive, and miraculously undamaged is the superb Canterbury Museum, on the Botanical Gardens grounds. One of the world’s best regional museums, and free; it has extensive collections of Maori artifacts, Antarctic exploration and New Zealand bird life dioramas. Really exotic and highly recommended.
|Antarctic exploration diorama, I believe they ate the dogs…|
So, finally, it was time for the end-of trip celebration. We saw and learned an amazing amount traveling rough together over 18-20 days. New Zealand is very different than Australia in almost every way, and we all took home memories that will last a lifetime.
|Last bedtime in NZ!|
|Packing it up for the airport|
|Stephanie, the one who pulled it all together!|
Even after five months, the memories or our NZ trip are very fresh. So many common experiences shared; we all want to go back again soon. In fact, I just booked a hike on the Routeburn Track with Aidan for November 2016…Long story, but an epic DDU in waiting…If you are ever planning on traveling this way down under, I tell everyone that Australia and New Zealand, though neighbors joined by common heritage and language, are otherwise entirely different places. My advice is not to miss either, but to plan on spending adequate time, 2-3 weeks in each country, as a minimum….you could easily spend a lifetime.
Thanks again for traveling along with us; family, friends and fans of DDU wherever you are. Sorry for the drought…just busy, busy, busy living life down under with five kids…. Wishing you the best in your adventures, still reporting from my duty post in Brisbane.
Fondly, Doc Down Under.
|Back in Brisbane…it’s so hot here…!|
|Merry Aussie Christmas, #3, from Aidan, Claire and Luke|
So here we are, still down under, heading into our fourth year…Looking back, I see that this is only my third DDU entry for 2015…WOW…just wow…….Time flies, and we are busy living life I guess. Lots has been going on, it seems maybe we’re too busy for me to sit and write a bit…..All apologies friends and family. Anyway, a southern hemisphere ” Merry Christmas” to you all from the Nolan family….:-O
We had a nice Christmas dinner with several other American and Canadian families we’ve gotten to know. Played whiffleball out on the foreshore park in the 85 degree heat. Everyone feeling similarly displaced from family and familiar environments…
|Dad, I’m starving…when’s dinner…?|
|Santa’s sista helpers..|
|Christmas morning sleigh ride|
|It’s a universal holiday at this point!|
|Stephanie, the girl that makes it ALL happen…!|
|Luke and Claire on Manta Bommie|
|Claire getting close to a Giant Manta|
|Divemaster Harvie with the Certificates|
Luke and Claire also got their open ocean diving certificates, finishing up their last year’s Christmas presents right on time…They did an amazing dive where they saw Giant Mantas, Lemon Sharks etc…So proud…! Look up KingofAqua on youtube to see Luke’s video of the dive..Sweet as….!
|Luke, Claire, Aidan and Cate|
|Recording some new o.g.nolan tunes, nooo…!|
So, working backwards from Christmas, Luke and I did a father/ son camping trip down the coast in Byron Bay, visiting some old favorite haunts and finding some brand new ones too…Really fun and laid back trip…Luke’s developed into a most excellent road warrior.
|At The Farm , Byron Bay, NSW|
|Amazing lettuce, Mullimbimby Farmer’s Market|
|Minyon Falls, NSW|
|Byron Bay Brew Pub|
|The o.g. at Wategos Beach|
|Julian Rocks dive boat|
|The Pass in a rainstorm|
|The Pass, Byron Bay|
|Schoolies week, night action, Byron Bay..(Gulp…..!)|
|Don’t miss this act!! NSW Public Health warning…;-O|
|World’s oldest (and most enthusiastic) schoolie…..|
|Hand painted stage mural, The Rails, Byron|
|Keepin’ it simple…home.|
|Morning beach scene, Byron|
|Byron Head and lighthouse|
|Traveling minstrel at The Rail (from Atlanta, Georgia!)|
|The Rail, Byron Bay, cool pub in the old train station|
|Now that’s a beach….|
|Wooden footbridge, Brunswick Heads|
|Bruns Pub– our regular pit stop….|
|Sublime Mount Warning, Tweed River valley, northern NSW|
|Doctor Beach Bum…|
|Cheers mate…and a Happy Christmas from ‘Stralia…!!…..:-)|
So, not that anyone has called or written to express concern……but, we are doing just fine thanks; as 2015 evolves into 2016 and beyond….Wishing you all the best of health in the New Year…We’ll likely be here for a bit longer yet…stop in, say hi… Cheers! DDU
|The Nolan Clan with Uncle Nicky|
A friend from the USA says she’s been regularly following the blog, but wondered why I hadn’t posted since January. I couldn’t believe her, but I checked, and correct she was; no DDU for almost 6 month! And yet, somehow, life carries on apace…how did all that time slip away…?
|Brisbane Airport pickup|
|Kids lovin’ their Uncle|
Now in our fourth (!) year in Australia, we are all doing well, settled into the normal life rhythms….birth, school, work, death….all that stuff…(almost!)
I was recently asked to be ED Director, a real honor, and a big job. The ED at Redlands is approaching 60 K visits and has around 250 employees and staff. Everytime I try to leave this country, they make me a better offer…!
|But times have changed!|
Nicholas was between jobs and able to get away for 3 weeks of R&R down under. Late March- Mid April, late summer, early fall here….Perfect…We took him on a tour of all our favorite haunts…
|Beach Beauties, Claire and Cate|
|Bruns Pub love|
|Cabin at Brunswick Heads|
|The old wooden footbridge to the beaches|
|Aidan with a nice Bream|
|Iconic Lighthouse, Byron Head|
|Tallow Beach, Byron Bay NSW|
|Sweet southern sun, watch that burn…!|
|Me and Cate|
|Fishin’ was just the alibi|
|Bruns Pub groovin’|
|Natural Bridge hike|
|Cast after party|
Luckily, Nicholas was here during the kids school play, “The Wizard of Oz”. They worked really hard at it, and it came off wonderfully. Featuring Luke Nolan as the hippest Wizard ever, Claire as a munchkin and Aidan as an angry apple tree…
|Sushi with the neighbors, Stephanie and Jean|
|Story Bridge, a Brisbane landmark|
|uhhmm… that ain’t right…|
Another great coincidence was that Luke and Claire were getting one of their open-ocean dives done. So, we all headed across Moreton Bay to the wrecks at Tangalooma, a fantastic artificial reef for diving and snorkeling.
|Luke and Claire with Harvie the Divemaster|
|Claire ready to go|
The kids have done really well with the diving, which can be challenging off the Australian coast…”So proud…” 🙂
|Luke all set to dive|
|Leaving the wrecks|
|Glasshouse Mountains from Moreton Bay|
|Day hike on Mount Coolum, near Noosa|
Next up was a last minute ED conference at the resort town of Noosa, on the Sunshine coast. Amazing how it all came together, including accommodations for eight!
|Claire beat me to the summit…just barely..!|
|Team Photo, Mount Coolum, Sunshine Coast|
|Looking good Owen!|
|Marcoola Beach phantom|
|Nice digs for Stephanie|
|Big Sandy N.P. wild coastline north of Noosa|
|Sublime Noosa Head N.P.|
|Hell’s Gate, Noosa NP|
|My wonderful eldest son, Luke|
|Noosa River and villages|
|Aidan at Noosa main beach|
|Noosa Main Beach|
|Outrigger Resort, Noosa|
|Hastings Street, Noosa|
|ID please, Aidan…|
Finally, time was getting short and it was back to Raby Bay, Cleveland for a few preliminary good-bye celebrations. So great to get a visitor from home…:-)
|Luke’s amazing wild-caught and self-prepared calamari|
|Sunset cocktails on the pontoon|
|The last supper…for now…|
|Siblings 4 eva|
Finally, and sadly, lift-off morning…and a farewell, not goodbye, to Uncle Nicky….We hope you had a wonderful Aussie adventure with the Nolans! We loved hosting you and welcome any family or friends from the States to swing through if their travels take them through the Brisbane area…Love from us all, still, in Australia.
And, this entry makes me realize how remiss and tardy I’ve been here at DDU…I still can’t believe it’s been 6 months…We are doing stuff, honestly…maybe I’ll do a random catch-up entry asap…At least before another 6 months goes by I certainly hope…!
Anyway, my love to all, near and far-flung, from DDU, still manning his post here in Brisbane, Australia. Someone’s gotta do it I suppose….
|Morning from the dock, Raby Bay|
|And one last, best, Cate hug…..|
|Male King Parrot|
It’s January 2015, the kids are still on their mid-summer school break. We decided to get out of the hot, humid coastal zone and return to Lamington National Park. At over 1000m elevation (3,000 ft), and 50,000 acres, it’s the largest intact subtropical rainforest in Australia, and perhaps the entire world. Only 90 minutes from Brisbane, you are suddenly in an entirely different world.
|A nice rainforest bungalow|
Our first few days were cool, cloudy and misty. A refreshing change, and the moisture made all the greenery glisten…adding to the sense of adventure…
|Fashionable Miss Cate|
|Too slippery today!|
The treetop skywalk at O’Reilly’s leads to the famous giant Fig Tree ladder look out. You start at around 80-100 ft off the forest floor, and then climb up two more stories by ladder to a tiny lookout perched at the top of this ancient tree. Not for ‘fraidy-cats!
|Claire and rainforest tree buttress|
O’Reilly’s is also famous for the daily wild bird feeding that’s been happening since the 1920’s. Using specially screened seed to protect the bird’s health, it’s one of the few places in Australia that allows feeding wild birds. Wild King Parrots, Crimson Rosellas and Rainbow Lorikeets come readily out of the surrounding forest to feast…an incredible opportunity to get so close to normally reclusive species… Kids of all ages love it!
|Moran Falls overlook|
|Booyong Tree root buttresses|
World-Heritage listed Lamington NP sits on the northern flank of the massive, extinct Tweed Volcano that last erupted around 23 million years ago. It’s only one of a network of dozens of parks that form a continuous preserve running for over 100 miles along the Border Ranges, so named because the height of land forms the border between Queensland and New South Wales to the south. It’s one of the premier hiking, or bushwalking, areas in Australia, containing hundreds of miles of trails through a vast and complex ecosystem.
|A strangler fig that has killed the host tree|
|Moran Falls, several hundred ft high|
|Kids chillin’, post-hike|
|Stimson crash monument|
O’Reilly’s was also the site of the famous Stimson plane crash in the 1930’s. After a massive search was called off as fruitless, one of the brothers, Bernard, struck off on his own through the trackless rainforest and found 2 survivors 10 days after the crash. They were carried out to safety and the case made headlines world-wide. There is an interesting museum, statue and similar original plane on the grounds today. There are even occasional guided hikes out to the ruined plane’s remote crash site.
|A similar Stimson plane, not a replica|
O’Reilly’s started as a remote family dairy farm around 1915. It was soon surrounded by the new Lamington NP. Gradually the family began housing explorers, tourists and visitors. It’s still owned by the original family and is world-renowned for it’s high standards of hospitality in the middle of a huge wilderness area. Truly one of the world’s first eco-lodges! Plan to visit if ever in the area, it’s a unique experience in Australia
|The path forward…|
But ultimately, a trip to Lamington is all about the magnificent rainforest that surrounds all. We did a 16 km (10 mile) hike on day three up to the edge of the ancient caldera. As you are already high in the mountains, it’s mostly a gradual uphill ridge hike. For the truly fit, this is the first 1/3 of a legendary 24 km (15 mile) one-way hike across the caldera ridge and down a neighboring ridge to the wilderness lodge at Binna-Burra. You have to shuttle cars, but it’s one for the future bucket list for sure.
|Ancient Antarctic Beech trees|
As you get up onto the highest ridges the forest changes to predominantly moss-covered Antarctic Beech, which thrive in the cool moist cloud cover. They are the last vestige of a lost time, 20 million years ago, when Australia was a cooler, wetter continent. It’s a fantastic world to visit, if even for a few hours…
|Mount Warning, the central cinder cone of the Tweed Caldera|
|Springbrook Plateau and NSW coastline beyond|
Luckily, the weather held and we had wonderful views of the entire Tweed Volcano caldera with Mt Warning at it’s center. The furthest mountain ridges beyond are actually the southern rim of the caldera, almost 60 miles across! This is one of the largest and best preserved calderas on earth…Truly a stunning environment and a wonderful playground to explore! The lava flows, some thousands of feet thick, blew out and flowed SE forming the rich sugar growing soils of the Tweed River valley and Murwillumbah, NSW.
|Luke, Claire and Aidan, my adventurous teens|
|Yellow-Faced Whipsnake, venomous but shy|
|Claire on the mysterious ridge trail, steep cliffs below!|
|Back to the Treetop Walk after six hours of effort|
|Aidan conquering his fears|
|The ladder up….gulp…!|
|The lodges at O’Reilly’s, Border Ranges beyond|
|Good effort Owen…!|
|A well-deserved dip|
|Cate with some wild friends|
|A well-deserved hot tub, Cate and Claire|
|My eldest Daughtie, Claire|
|Luke and Aidan, the young Nolan men|
|Still crazy after all these years….! Stephanie, who makes all good things possible…|
|Border Ranges sunset with Mount Lindsey|
|Border Ranges morning|
|Luke, Jan 2015|
Well, it was our last day at O’Reilly’s. We first came here soon after arriving in Australia, in March 2012. I thought it would be fun to compare the kids in 2015 vs 2012, almost exactly 3 years later. I dug out the old pictures…What a surprise! Time flies and kids grow, change and rarely look back….Sigh….Enjoy them while you still have them!
|Claire, Jan 2015|
|In 2012…same hat anyway…!|
|and cute as a button, in 2012…|
|Owen, still in a stroller, in 2012|
|Dad, needing a shave, in 2015|
|Ma n’ Pa Nolan in 2012…stressed…?|
|Stephanie and Owen, not cooperating, in 2015|
|A pretty scary ladder!|
And then, a final trip to the Big Fig Tree, for a final courage trial. Not everybody made the climb….Owen insisted on climbing the tree, but I stopped him at the first lookout, some 120 ft above the ground. He wanted to go all the way up! When the small crowd below realized he climbed up, at only six, using only one arm, they were very moved and broke out into a spontaneous round of applause….Well earned indeed Owen!
|Owen and the girls high up above the world…|
|Above Canungra, QLD|
|The sublime “Scenic Rim”, Queensland|
|Regent Bowerbird, O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat symbol|
|Balancing life, moving towards the future….|
So, we visit old haunts and take a moment to mark our progress through this life….One thing is for certain, it never stands still…! This year we look forward to many more Nolan family adventures in this fascinating land “down under”.
We wish you all the best of health in 2015, and hope you can occasionally join us for the ride….Thanks for following along….:-)…DDU
|Luke, aka Snorkel Santa|
|Smell the fresh scent of plastic!|
|But work in the ED carries on, 24/7/365|
|When life gives you mangos….|
|The skiing alternative….|
|Evenings out on the veranda|
|Aussie Ginger Beer…Luke approved.|
|Christmas Ham Dinner– all served cool….|
|Working off those calories|
|Aussie Christmas Day|
|My three wonderful sons|
|Claire’s handmade masterpiece|
|A Brisbane summer storm blowing up….|
|Tempting the fates…|
|Merry Christmas from Brisbane, Australia 2014 !!!|
I thought it might be fun to just throw in a random bunch of
photos of what we’ve been up to since the Sydney trip.
So, here’s a quick blast of various fun, interesting or downright
weird stuff we’ve experienced recently. Enjoy!!
|Boxing Day sea monster!!|
|Watch yer fingers…!|
|Crazy monster eel caught off the dock|
|White faced heron (and doctor…)|
|Rae’s at Wategos…where we couldn’t afford to stay…|
|The Pass, Byron Bay|
|Keepin’ it simple folks|
|Byron Beach scribblings|
|Me and “Mister Skunky…”|
|Aidan in the surf|
|The Bruns Pub- my favorite hideaway…|
|The return of ominous seabirds….|
|Luke at the Pass, Byron Bay, NSW|
|Byron Head from Brunswick Heads beach, with kite sailors|
|My beloved Cate|
|The three young’ns|
|Luke and Cate, besties….|
|Aquatic Center, Cleveland|
|My lovely ladies|
|Ma ‘n Pa|
|Stephanie in Brisbane- the Big Smoke|
|The Brisbane eye|
|A G-20 survivor|
|Beach bod! (Uhmm….:-0…!)|
|Surf Lifesaver Santa|
|On the beach-Brunswick Heads|
So, a perfect Aussie Christmas moment; as I was walking down the open, endless beach at Brunswick Heads I came upon this Surf Lifesaver group and thought, “That’s a perfect Christmas photo…” I approached and asked if I could get a few shots..In true Aussie fashion, they were really psyched and cooperative. When I asked them if I could put them on my blog that would be read all the way back to America and New York, the blonde bloke in the ballcap laughed incredulously and simply said, ” Oh cheerio, lovely….!”
So, that about sums up the year of 2014 for us in Australia….Oh cheerio, lovely! Thanks for following along. And we wish the same for you and your families in 2015…Merry Christmas and peace on earth to one and all…..DDU
|Merry Aussie Christmas… Oh, Cheerio, lovely…..!|